VIRAGOCARB

Hey YouTube! Alright, today we're going to do a little bit of work on a 97 Virago 750 and want to pull the carburetors out of there. So I'll kind of do a step by step and we'll see how it works. This is some of the tools that you'll need here. Basically, if you've got a 10mm, 12mm, you need a 5mm Allen key that's definitely very important and a Phillips head screwdriver. I've got a couple of those here. A pair of pliers for taking off clamps off the fuel lines, things Alright, let's dig in and get started. Okay, so first thing we're going to start with is removing the seat. To do that, we've got to take these side covers off of here. First way to do that is just pull that. This just locks into the bottom, two tabs that pop in there and you're done. We should also undo the battery while we're at it. I'll just go ahead and grab up. And then we'll just undo the negative cable just so we don't have a little accident or something This is a necessary step, recommended at least Alright, then we'll transition over to the other side of the bike and get the panel off the other side. And this one here, just kind of give it a pull rate at the bottom. It'll pop out and actually just kind of locks onto the front with two tabs there. Okay, next thing we need to do is remove the seat bolts. We'll just stick right here. This is a 5mm Allen key and we just spin this guy back. This one's fairly long. Okay, once that pops out, I'm going to show you one more thing right in here. There is a little spacer. Just reach in there and pop it out. And that's just so that you don't lose it later. Go ahead and put the bolt in there and set that aside. Let's come back over to this side. One more 5mm Allen key and right there. There are washers on both of these. Okay, and we'll set that aside. Now to remove the seat, just lift straight up in the front and then just pull forward and the seat's free. Okay, next step is going to be remove the fuel tank. So the fuel sending unit connector is right here. I unplugged that already. That you'll undo by just pushing this connector down and it's going to release from this side here, separate it. They can be a little bit sticky. There's a 12mm bolt right here. So just go ahead and give that a crack loose. Okay, so there's this cutaway washer and a rubber gasket that's going to come off with that. Keep those together and set them aside. Next thing that we're going to do is come around to this side of the bike and just make sure the fuel line's undone. I have already got the main fuel line undone. These use a vacu Just lift up on the back of the tank to get a little bit of room. Slide the spring clamp off the vacu Unplug that. Let me just pull the tank, kind of at angle back away from the bike. The inside of the tank, you're going to see these little Channels here and this sits on the rubber grommets that are attached to the frame on the front of the bike and that's what holds the front end of the tank in and that 12mm bolt in the back. Okay, so the next thing we're going to do is remove this, they call it a bug eye off this side and some of the air ducts that go to the carburetor. The frame on the Yamaha uses the top part of the frame as the central air duct for this. So we're going to go ahead and remove this screw here. This one over here, I've kind of already loosened these up. There's one more right at the bottom right in there. So go ahead and loosen those up. The next thing that we'll do is remove the 5mm Allen screws for the bug eye itself. One there, this one here. This one's really long on this bike. I'm not sure if somebody switched it at some point, but I didn't buy the bike new, so it's possible somebody changed it or Yamaha just put a really long one in there. Okay, so now that we have those two bolts off, we can set those aside. So just go ahead and grab the bug eye. Just slide down and out and it's disengaging off of there at the top. Okay, so we're going to go ahead and pull this air duct off this back carburetor. Pull it off the carburetor first. Just watch this clamp. It Once that's out of the way, just slide this down and out and we're all set there. Next thing we're going to do is remove the throttle cables here. So now just loosen the nuts on the bottom of each cable. It doesn't really matter which one you do first, but go ahead and give that a turn. You're going to see that bottom nut loosened. Don't change the front one. If you change the top nut, then that's going to change your adjustment on the cables. If you just crack these guys loose, set it around your side. So then basically just lift this up to clear that little step on the bracket. Once that's done, this can spin around, disengage from there. What I do with this one is I just set it on top so it's out of the way and the second cable just repeat the process. Lift, spin it around so that you can disengage That way I don't have to wonder which one went where. I know this one goes to this side and the top one went to this side here. Okay, next step, I'm just going to go ahead and remove this vacu This goes to the, I don't know what they call it, it's basically an air p Go ahead and pull that vacu There we go, that's loose and then we're going to go ahead and loosen up the carburetor boot on this side. That's just to fill up that again. Go ahead, back it out, give yourself a fair bit of room to work with. Perfect. All right, next step is to remove the bug eye from the other side. This one is a little bit different. There are some bolts up here, but let'start right at the bottom. There's a 10 millimeter right there and we're going to go ahead and just pull this little guy out. Once that's a pretty short bolt, once that comes out, we're just going to rotate the bottom of this towards us and then up in the top. Basically, there's two rubber grommets and then this 10 millimeter bolt just holds the bottom in place. Just rotate it, pop it up and then you're all set. Okay, so this is that air p I forgot the AICS or I don't know something they call it A couple of five millimeter hex bolts here. We're going to go ahead and crack these loose. Pull it out. That's a real long one. On this side. Let's get that out. I'm going to set those aside. Now the next step is going to be to remove a vacu I should probably find one for there. Go ahead and pull that out and then these two pipes on the side here, they're just going to slip out of place and just let this lay over to the side. It'll be out of your way and just leave it The next step after is to go ahead and remove this carburetor boot. One screw right there. We'll go ahead and back that out and one more right here at the bottom of the carburetor intake. Then the last one is right at the back of the carburetor. This is the main boot, intake boot again off the cylinder head and we'll go ahead and loosen that one up. Again, give yourself quite a bit of room to work with. There we go. That's loose. That's loose. Then just go ahead and pop this boot off the carburetor again and slide it down off the frame. Of course the clamp came off on that one. We'll go ahead and just pop that back into place so we don't lose it. Let's remove these breather tubes. Just basically slide the clamp back on that. These are a little twists and they'll pull out of place. The other one is we move over to the other side. The clamp is right under here. Just rotate it so you can get out it. Go ahead and spin that ahead and just give the hose a little push and then that'll come out of your way as well. Then once the holes are set aside, now's as good a time as any to start loosening these bolts on the intake boot. Just push this ahead a bit so we can sneak a wrench on here and we'll crack these loose. Now these clamps that are on here are kind of welded in place and I think one of mine, the spot weld, actually popped off which actually gives me a little bit more room to work on it, but then I just have to make extra sure I get it back in the right spot. Of course that last bit's always tricky. The bolt's rubbing against the clamp here. Okay we earned our pay on that one. So we're going to head pop that out and set the bolt aside for now. And the next one we're going to remove or at least crack it and loosen it up. We're actually not going to remove this. The top bolt on both sides, so this one here and then the other one you're not going to be able to see it great. I'm going to point the screwdriver is going to be in the back here so this is the one for the rear carburetor. We just need to loosen those a few turns. They don't need to come out. So if we go right in here, actually we're going to use the open end on this one. Oh So go ahead loosen this Phillips here. Again this doesn't have to come out. Just enough to slip the choke behind here. Flip that out of the way and then just feed the choke cable back up so it's on your way. Give you a little bit more room to work. Pick up our 10mm again. We're going to go ahead and see if we can crack this guy loose. Okay that should be good enough and we're going to spin around the other side. And we're going to go ahead and pull the lower right out again. All right. And the lighting is going to be terrible but again suffice to say you need to get a wrench on this back. When these can be a bit tricky but take your time, it is possible. The other thing you can do at this point, you can actually slip the carburetor actually out of the boots and if you tip it a bit, it gives you a little more room to get at this. I'm just going to go ahead and take this flat screwdriver and I'm just going to pry against here a little bit and we're just going to push this carburetor out of the way and that's going to give us a little more room to work. There we go. So once that's out, just set it aside. That's going to let the carburetors fall back out of place. And now you've got lots of room to get in and loosen up that back bolt here. Now we can actually use the box end on it and again these don't come out. Just two three turns back. It's just going to loosen it up and then the boot will slide off the other side just Once that slides out of the way, this is going to pull out Once that slides out of the way, you've got our throttle cables off, fuel lines undone, the vacu Alright so basically once you have the carbs put back together, you've cleaned all the passages, everything's good. Followed the video from before to see where your hoses go again if you lost track. I added a filter in here so we're going to try that out. Whoops this goes this way and we're going to go ahead and just slip the carbs back into the bike Just watch your oil lines end here so you don't want to jam anything. When you get it set up right, it will kind of just slide into place. There we go and just get those ballpark lined up to get my filter here. I should have got a smaller one apparently but that's pretty close so I think I'm going to have room there. It should be okay as far as that goes. Next thing we're going to do is take these carburetor boots. Make sure your o-ring is in good condition or you can replace those Yamaha's one place to get them. You might be able to find them on eBay as well so just lean the carb ahead best you can. These boots are in pretty crappy shape of mine but they don't leak at this point so I'm not replacing them quite yet. And there we go so I have that clamp set up so that it actually comes right off and I am going to just go ahead and start this bottom bolt in here. Now it slips in the top because we never took the bolt out. We just loosened it off. You'll see how the washer goes. It's fairly self-explanatory. We're going to screw this bolt in just still it's not, well finger tight even really is all you need. Make sure the clamp slips. Back into place where it goes. There we go and we're good with that side. For now, now we're going to go around to the other side. And we're just going to spin the wheel so we got a little bit more room to work here. Same idea, just kind of wiggle the carbs. This new fuel filter is going to cause me some grief. I am going to slide it out of the way for now so that I can get what I need reached. And Get that washer spun around the right direction on the backside. And there we go, that's in place. So now I will go ahead and start this second screw on this side. And we literally just want to start that one two three turns. Just make sure it's in there. Go ahead, pop your clamp back in place if it pops off. There you go. Now this is going to be the probably the hardest part here and I'll show you how I do it. I get a pry bar and if you're very careful you kind of line this hole up, get in behind the head. You don't want to push on the bowl of the carburetor but on the I sprayed those, oh I forgot to mention I sprayed these carburetor intake boots with silicone spray so they slip a little bit easier and before Now we don't want the intake boots tight yet because it's easier for them to move around a little bit while you flex them in there. Back on this side you can see it looks So again watch your oil lines. Get the start line up best you can. You may have to push the carbs a little bit the other way and just be slow and gentle you watch and they will just slowly sink into place. And that looks I'm going to head and throw the throttle cables back in that's just the opposite of how you took them out to put these guys back in place. These can be a bit tricky we'll see hopefully this one goes good. Slip the top in place first slide it up there. Of course this is going to be ignorant now that I'm doing it on camera. Make sure your clamps stay in place it's important to get these boots sealed up you can't have a leak on these boots with the CV carburetors the bike will have all kinds of drivability issues if you end up with a vacu Just go around here. That one's tricky this side's actually pretty easy to get at you're going to open this up a little bit. So the top's got to slip in make sure these clamps are backed out lots give yourself lots of room to play with you can even spin them way back and slide them right up a little bit then just pop this boot in place and there you go that's on slide your clamp back into place screwed back up the other side I'll probably do the same thing is maybe I just need to loosen those clamps up a little bit more and go ahead and get those into place tighten your top clamp up here too make sure that you're not catching any of these wires or anything in there as well. Go ahead do your choke cable backup that slips in at the front and just make sure that it's locked in place just