Precision Motor-Sports LLC

What's up YouTube? Here we're doing the question and answer where I asked Glenn the questions that you had for him. So Glenn, why don't you tell us a little bit about RPM before we get started? So we're very well versed in automotive and pretty much anything out there. So I try to stick to being a true technician and challenges and trying new things and not just being brand specific or something that anybody can work one thing and one thing only. So I love a challenge. So anything from late model LS, early first generation, small block Chevy, anything that is first generation, early Hemi stuff, early Ford, any of that stuff, it'stuff I cut my teeth on and we've kind of moved into late model LS, late model Hemi, late model Ford, EcoBoost, all that stuff. I love working on all of it and we're seeing great gains and results out of all of it too. So it turns out pretty well so far. One of the things that's different about me from most all the shops out there is that I'm actually pretty well versed in every aspect of the build. So everything from I build all the engines in house myself, we've got a full stock parts room and parts house here. We house anywhere between $350,000 worth of parts at a time. So we kind of cut down lead time and stuff that we need to order or have on hand. Of course nobody has it all so of course we have to wait for some stuff seldomly but So great. So let's just ask a few of these questions here. I got a question here from Talence. He wants to know what your opinion is on the 2006 to 2010 6. 1 liter Hemi engines and have you worked on them and how reliable are they compared to the 5. 7 liter? So the early 6 ones compared to the late model Eagle 5. 7s are actually not that much different in general. Pretty decent as far as that's concerned. I've done a ton of 6 ones and a ton of 5. 7s. The nicest thing is the 6. 1 is the bigger bore. Anytime you get a bigger bore you make cylinder heads work better. I've got several out there that are severely stroked and or pro charged and turbo charged. I've got a bunch of turbo charged applications as well as pro charged applications that were 100% custom. Everything from all we did was take a head unit and start from there and make all the brackets and everything. We've got some very mild 6 ones out there as well. Simple bolt on, headers exhaust and so on and so forth. Just my tunes and we've got some that are in low 11s, high 9s. They're all over the place so it just depends on what you're trying to do with it but they're overall a great power plant. This next question is kind of interesting because I think you got an E85 5. 7 liter Hemi out front right now. Joe Sui, Valinuba wants to know would pro charge 5. 7 handle the pressure to run on E85 or would there have to be major upgrades to it? If so what upgrades would be needed? The benefit of E85 is octane. Anytime you can keep detonation down means you can add more timing, more timing means more power. E85 is fantastic in doing that, getting more power out of it. I've not really pushed the fringes of a perfectly good running engine at this point. We've got a few that are 650, 700 horse stock bottom ends but I'm not really interested in pushing it beyond that point. Tuning and drivability at that point is really what we're looking for. A couple of these customers, they've asked me, hey let's try to keep it conservative which I do very well. Make sure we're not hurting any kind of drivetrain components and making more power than the stuff that's in there so we're kind of limited on several avenues. Very similar to what happened with your vehicle, we've got a stock transmission, we've got stock internals, we want to be conservative, I'm pulling power out during shifts to make it reliable but I know that if I had a customer come in it was just, I want to see how much we can get out of it. I know there's more to be had but the tuning is huge, keeping detonation out of it and making it last has a lot to do with the tuner. John Calhill, he wants to know, what are some of the challenges faced when tuning a car at higher altitudes versus tuning a car at lower elevations? It's difficult in certain areas and sometimes it's extremely easy. The biggest thing is that we have much less air up here. When I'm tuning cars at sea level I've got 100 kPa where I'm tuning cars up here, the max we'll see is 83 kPa so we have to just maneuver some of our areas where I'm tuning around in there but we see a lot of times when we see dead spots in cars that wouldn't be there at sea level because they have just a plethora of air. You just as much as you want you have down at sea level where it's up here or really grasping its draws. That comes into play a lot with my camshafts, that's why every cam Install out here I do my best to see if I can get the customer to let me grind it custom because we have zero to, absolutely zero comparison to a sea level camshaft so it's Just a shout out to John, he's one of our local subscribers and I got a question from another local subscriber here too. Before we get to that one we're going to ask a question from Hemmy Rob. He wants to know, when running boosts how much can safely be run before needing forged internals? He's heard some places based on how much PSI is stock, block and hold which he's heard 8 to 10 PSI and he's also heard that it'solely based off the horsepower n Also what forged internals are recommended and is it worth buying a forged crank as well? He's going to be installing a D1 on his 2015 RT soon and his goals are around 650 to 700 wheel horsepower. It's not as much a PSI rating as much as it is an overall horsepower rating most of the time. Main reason saying that is because if we're running less PSI and we're running something where we can add more timing then we can make a bunch more power via timing and not out of the more solar with boost. It's more of an overall horsepower rating but as I've said previously I haven't really pushed one really hard. As soon as we know we're going to really start leaning on something. If we're going to do a D1 or above I start leaning on forged internals anywhere around 650 horsepower. It's more of a safety thing because nobody wants an engine coming apart. I've had a few catastrophic failures in race cars and 120 miles an hour when oil gets underneath the slicks it's a hell of a ride. It's more of a safety thing at that point. We've pushed the fringes on a lot of stuff just not as much on the Dodge cars because pretty much everybody that I've dealt with so far with these has just been extremely conservative. I want to make this much power and I want it to be reliable and I'm fine with that. We can do that all day long. So the last question comes from a local here. He's Dustin4673. He wants to know can I get more gains with a turbocharger than the Procharger Altitude? He also added or twin turbos. So there's lots of benefits either direction with a Procharger system or a root style, positive displacement style blower or turbos or twin turbos. It all depends on your driving style, what your final goals are and how much power you'really looking to make. If I have a customer come in and he's going to be spending a whole lot of time on the drag strip and that's The biggest thing is that turbochargers even when wrapped, even when completely ceramic coated, even when everything out there is dialed in perfectly, the amount of heat you produce underneath the hood of a car is tremendous. It's five and six fold times any blower out there. So anything that's plastic, anything that's on there that can deteriorate, if you're going to be putting a lot of miles on the car it's going to deteriorate quickly. That being said, we've done tons of turbos on daily drivers all over but it's all about personal preference. Do you want power right now on demand instantaneously anytime you drop the hammer? Do you want to make the most power on the top end? Do you want to make the most power on the bottom end? How heavy is the car? What's your setup? What gear ratio you're running? What transmissions in it? What's going to be done with the car? So I have a long talk in depth with the customer very, very in depth and find out what their actual goals are, what kind of driving style. It's really all personal preference at that point. One extra question that I wanted to ask you is I'm fortunate enough to have you locally, to have you work on my car. What if somebody on the other side of the country or outside of this local area wants to order parts or have you do some work? How can they get ahold of you and how does that work? It's really easy actually. I ship cars all over the United States. I actually go and pick up the cars myself now. I had a couple transport companies, damaged and scratched a couple cars so I actually personally go and pick up the cars now to make sure that they get here safe but I've got an enclosed trailer, extremely nice setup to where we can pull any car no matter how low, no matter how lifted, it doesn't matter we can get it here and get it here safely. If you need to get in touch with us directly, phone n You can always look us up rpmdembar. net. That's pretty much it. If you want us to work on the car order parts from us, you can get directly in touch with us through the phone n Great Glenn, I appreciate your time. Absolutely, thank you sir. We got to get them back to the shop back there so we can start working on some of these cars but