The functional, light weight, durable, bolt on, Rally Kit for your 2008-11 KTM 400, 450, 505, 530.
At this point you've gotten your bike ready to start the installation. We have basically the whole right side of the wire loom. Everything's unplugged. We've got it off to the side out of the way speedometer. If you have a speedo, take it off. Those cables and wires up out of the way. If you're going to do the rally route on the brake cable and the speedo, I kind of mocked it up and got a little bit close again out of the way. Voltage regulator rectifier off, disconnected off to the side and a wiring, We're going to work from frame plates to our mid block to our tower and then forward with the lighting and the fairing mount. So a lot of these you'll see once you get an XC SX kit or the Husky equivalent, you will see there are differences in them. And on this one, in this case, we have recesses and openings for the bosses for the voltage regulator rectifier. I find it is easiest to drop them in from the front on the fork to drop through this way. And you'll see with some of these, if you have the charcoal canister bosses still on here, we made a recess for that. Get behind, get the plate behind the wire and then basically just tilt up. And now it's kind of, And now we're going to take the right side, do the same thing. This is basically the 2021 wire loom. 17 to 19 is a little farther up. I suggest removing that completely just to make your life a little easier. Again going forward, I went over that, dropped down. This side's a little easier. Now I'm taking the two 8mm by 80mm socket head cap screws and our upper spacer. And we're basically going to slide these through and we're going to, you'll see I'm going to alternate the heads left to right on these. So just kind of sliding this through here. Make sure it's up in the spacer pocket. Right here. Okay, for this segment, grabbing our mid block frame spacers and our 6x80mm socket head cap screws. These will be packaged and clearly labeled for what we needed to install the mid block. I've pre-installed two of the socket head cap screws and the spacer. Chamfered it towards the back of the bike. And now I'm going to get this out of here. And again, because everything'still hand tight, you might need to finesse it. Now is when we're getting to where the tonnages are going to become even tighter and tighter while we're getting this guy on. So I just start with the top two. Don't push them all the way through because we've got to deal with the spacer and the plates on the other side. And then it's easier to get these middle guys in. Okay, first side here, grab the spacer. See these spacers have, see I got the bolts too far. Back in the mount a little bit. Get them flush with the plate, the inner plate. So, all right. Clip towards back, dropping this guy in. And close. And then we're going to try to push these through. Okay, tip. Start with the top bolt, work your way down. That way this one seems to be a little easier to finesse in. And then as you progress, as we go down, it brings all the alignment back together. So you can see there's just enough threads to get these guys started before it gets to my lock just to hand tighten again. So now we're going to go through the final tighten. Torque specs will be on the screen. We're now installing the mid, what we call the mid tower. I went ahead and grabbed one of the mid tower spacers and put in and attached it to the mid tower plate using the 6x16s and a standard 6 washer. And then once I had the spacer attached to the plate, then attached it to the mid block. So with the 8x45 button socket caps, went ahead and got these on, did a final tighten with them. And I'm going to do the same thing on this side. The main tower plates installed. It's time for the speedo mount. And what I did was went ahead and mounted my speedo to our bracket. I used the urethane bushings, reattached with a T20. Get the right orientation left to right. And I'm going to put it in here. Now there's two positions you can put it in. Depending on how many accessories you're adding, if you're running a roadbook, you can go to this higher position, these two bolts. If you're running the GPS mount in ADV mode, I suggest trying this position first. It's easy to change later. You'll have enough slack in the extensions we provide you. So that's how I suggest trying it first. The giant M4 by 110. Go ahead and go through. And then the M4s to finish the assembly on the M4 by 16. So finish the assembly on the speedo mount. All right. Speedo is attached. Now we're going to start with some of the wiring. Now this is us EXE, FE, XCFW, and FE, I'm sorry, FE and FES. You're dealing with a mass of wires coming up from the right side of the frame. Now the best way to route this, I feel, is below these frame plates here, below the midblock. And we made some mounting options for you. So the reason we don't want this going through here is because now you're getting away with the steer lock. You want it below so you get all that steering lock we possibly can, I should say steering range. So in the bottom of our midblock, you'll see, we gave you, we'll see if I can get a position of the camera. We gave you a couple holes and we supplied a bomber pan to a zip tie. This guy's UV resistant stainless steel. I guarantee you he will last longer than the top end on your bike. So I fished it up through the left side and back down through this right side. And I'm talking, And now I can get this under here and this little mess of wires through and start tightening and getting secure. I usually wait to do final tighten on this till I get farther through the progress. And this is kind of where you're going to want the head. See if I got this right. You're kind of want, you don't want the head of the zip tie kind of up here as much as we can. The wiring and part of the reason for the design in this midblock is all this room in here to tuck wires in. And also we're going to start running some of the wires down through the top access of the midblock in this billet section here. We're going to run some of these through. Say for example, the starter wires, the wheel, wheel speed sensor, if you have that on your bike. And yeah, go from here. So my speedo is I've mounted it in the lower position. I do not need the extensions for this section. As far as you'll see, there's the two speedo plugs. I will not need the extension here. They're going to be tucked nice and ready in here. You can go ahead and plug them now.