Lotus Restoration

If you want the lemon version, then it is at the end and you can skip it. If you want. But take a look at this interior and tell me where you could put the handbrake lever otherwise. He is not the unbeatable guy who can be stalled, If you step on it and step on it, the mount breaks off and the lever becomes completely flat. There is no pill in the other hand. The only way to repair that is to get behind the outer spring where the lever mount is screwed. That is scary, because invasive, but we try it. Some time ago someone tried to repair the wobbly lever or at least improve it. By installing the spindle around the glass fiber and then stuck the whole thing with a hose. To be fair, it probably helped. The mount is a steel mount on the other side of the inner black ellis and is held by three cross-slide machine screws that do not loosen. On the other side I thought in my naivety that the outer spring is only needed. How wrong I was. Okay, beware of the spray fans, there are many more threads than it seems at first glance. Two of them are hidden under the hinge carrier of the steel door in the cabin. I removed the heads with a multi-tool, but that is not very useful, because you still have to be in the position in the ideal case. You can drive the thread with a hammer from every hole, as well as the threads have a hold. One is under the glass fiber reinforcement on the separate wall of the engine compartment, which I did not photograph. There you have to drill through the glass fiber and in the engine compartment, at the place where the fuel tank would sit, there is a whole series of it. I actually have a overview of this recording, it is still under the dirt to see. One is also in the area where a conventional body of the front hood would be. Now you just have to drill the hards with which the spring was glued to the body, to loosen and that is not easy. Here you basically just have to pull it off carefully. I say the biggest part of the hards. It is only hards, but at the front and rear ends of the black hood, a kind of binding agent is used. It is clearly different, as it has a dark gray, almost black color. There it is. And obviously the machine screws did not let loose, because the mothers are not unbeatable. It is confusing me. The hold must be welded at some places So why don'the mothers just nail it? My instinct tells me immediately, to re-create it from stainless steel and then strengthen it. But the time is running out, so I will re-assemble and see, what possibilities there are, to strengthen them. After I had pushed the removed hold back into the hold, it became clear to me, that the hold is welded diagonally to the hold, so that the handbrake can stand upright. That would not be a big deal, if I had to re-create a new hold, but it would increase the work and the build-time hold. So I welded it tight. Yes, roughly. And a template for a second welded plate on the back of the hold and the buckle is made. I only use it, because I am very aware of it. No, I don't have a suitable piece of 2 or 3 mm thick steel plate on hand. That's why I couldn't do the right repair right now. When I turn the modified welder, I see a good example for how much the preparation influences the firmness of a glass-fazer repair. I doubt that this area was prepared beforehand, but when the repair went off, a small part of the original material was taken with it. Where it obviously had a good hold and didn't want to solve anymore. And that brings us to a question that you may have already made in the last episode, when I did the first hard repair on the car. Why don't I use epoxy resin? I could. The fact is, that epoxy resin polyester is clearly thought out of the firmness. This bowl is made of polyester. And in order to repair it in the same way, you have to have your basic properties such as flexibility, elasticity and firmness. A well-prepared repair on an surface And the professional bond-workstuff guy with the storm-hole, who stood behind me, said, If I wouldn't read the script, he would loosen my little fingers. I will drill them, think about what I'm going to do with the holder and assemble everything again next time. By the way, that's the whole thing that fell down from the small areas in the black waves, the gaps. But now I'll show you the moment I found out that my car is a pretty rough. Not that we didn't know that already. Okay, I knew that it was unlucky and that there was still a crack in the underbody by accident. In addition, I was lucky to find the third owner of the car, Ian, and he said that it was the driver'side in front. There was an corner in there. Yes, that's what I was doing. I drove into a car with it. Well, get ready, because that's going to be drastic. There you have it. Happy music, or because we stay positive. We stay positive, or we stay positive. Honestly, I spent about two days between the individual workstations with it, to look at the whole thing and to think about what to do. I have asked for your opinion and a video conference with Billy, the man for combined materials, to stop it. And I knew, if I would make a decision about it, whether I would cut the corner again and put it as perfectly as possible, I would have to remove most of the repair to see how it sits under the surface. So let's do this. Happy music, or because we stay positive. Come on. I could cut the corner out again. In the hope that it will have a better condition. But the repair has been on the road for at least ten years. Another floor wave at the point where you don't want it and hard enough to cause spin cracks in the nose. And the whole thing is about 40 years old. So rough it is down there, it's not a bad repair. What reasons are there to do everything? Well, first of all, the probability is high that a improvement of the Passform can lead to a deterioration of the Passform in some areas. And then there is the shriveling. New resin, filler, primer and paint were brought into the body. To repair them and all these things pull together and shrink with time. And they are actually shrunk, as I will show you next time. So she has all the movements that she could do, crossed and stabilized. If I now remove all waves or unevenness in the paint, they should not come back. If I add new material, especially up top, where it would be visible, I will in the coming years problems with the painting. The whole actual structure of this repair was up and inside the car. So if Invest time in the underside, to already fill in the added Fastness on the top, it will be a decent work. And on a strange kind it is exciting, to look at this work in the course of time. In this episode there are a few unmanaged works, but big steps on the way to Restoration of the body. That's how it sometimes works. There are no definitive news to replace seats or door covers. But with a little trust everything is fine. And when we talk about trust, thank you very much to the new support team and master, Bart U Davis, Saiyang, Marco Cota, Thomas Vernon, Risi, Neil Bennett and Bill Keating, Brendan Gann and Daniel Ketney for the renewal of their e-sign. We'll Until then, continue with the unmanaged work. Stay tuned and good luck! I was sick and couldn't really think about it and only touched the car. The front corner is only torn, but I just got a new corner. I was really sick, so I didn'take any pictures of it. It made me sick that I drove the car to the gravel.