Lakeview Woodcrafting - Big Green Egg Tables

The only thing I When I added my new Biklin XL, I knew I had to build a nice, elegant house for it. It is a simpler, but elegant table with light rolls, an extra stable construction, so that it can carry the weight of a fully equipped Commado grill without any problems and a smooth construction that should keep the elements from collecting water on the surface. I finished my Aussepelli. This is a great wood for outdoor and it looks of course also beautiful. But I made sure that the dimensions are suitable for woodworking. If you want to use woodworking for this, you can do that too. Let'start. I start with the glueing of the legs. I should give two boards the necessary thickness for three times three legs. I use Taipon III. This is a really good choice for the outdoor area. This printed wool is exactly what you want. I The next day I sand the excess glue off before I connect the piece of work and to the mass rubble. Beware of the connection to the right angle. Sometimes you can solve a problem and you will notice it only if it is too late. I cut the piece of work on the grain saw to the final length. To mark the savings, I make a measuring rod that marks the start and end points. I mark each of my legs. As you can see, the savings are pretty big in this piece of work and that should be the case. A big green egg is pretty heavy. For the savings I use my top milling machine with a 1. 5 inch spiral milling machine with counterpoint and a edge guide. The savings is 1. 9 cm wide, which is more than my milling machine can make in a process. After a somewhat more complicated math I decide to go through the first process. I use a small milling machine. After a somewhat more complicated math I decide to do the first process with a 1. 4 inch bottom milling machine. Then the second process without a bottom milling machine, which will push through my milling machine to a 1. 4 inch milling machine, so that a 3. 4 inch wide milling hole is created. The great thing about it is that I never have to adapt my edge guide and all my milling holes have exactly the same width. Here there are 16 milling holes. Therefore, everything is welcome, which makes the process easier or more precise. I leave the corners round, but there is still some material that I have to clean with a knife on the way. Now I'm going to make a simple curved template for the bottom of the leg. I can then transfer this shape to the leg itself. The first two sections are pretty simple, but with the second two I have to put the rest of the pieces back on the leg, so that I have line-up of the bleaching, which I can't follow. And it also helps me to stabilize the piece on the table. There is no reference to these shapes, so you can be pretty reliable with the last smooth. Yep, I Now to the rails. Normally I am quite wailish in terms of the dimension, but since this part was built during the pandemic, I take what I can get. The most beautiful material comes forward. I use six-quarters-inch wood here, but as already mentioned in the guide, you can also use some construction wood for this. For these rails I would use two-fold four-inch steel. The rails get the usual processing. Since they are so long, I find it easiest to use a hammer block and use the long sections with the saw to make them. To cut the nails, I use the table saw with a knife. I make a few trial sections on a section of the rail. As soon as I have the desired shape, I can cut the remaining nails. When the board is on the edge, I cut the short shoulder samples. As soon as they are inserted, I can finish the rest of the lower nails. The nails for the upper rails are a little shorter, so that more material is on the upper leg. This is area that can be quite fragile if you don't care. To round off the nails, I use a quarter-inch milling cutter. I make the rest with tools. People always ask me why I prefer to round off the nails instead of cutting the nails squarely. I personally find this method easier, but if you prefer to cut your nails squarely, then you do it. This is the kind of platform I am striving for. Okay, now I have a little bit of a problem. Okay, so you see that it is a CNC machine and after a short time, in which I have a owner, I am pretty convinced that the complaints will never stop. I don't have a CNC machine to replace the things I already do, but to do things that I can either not do by hand or want. Since I have, I could work out the details in advance and use the conditions themselves, which is a luxury that I don't normally have. These templates are pretty practical, because each template provides us with two profiles for the lower long rails. This template provides us with the half of the simple curve, which is set on a midline, which is 2. 5 cm above the ground. I can draw a half of the curve. Then I turn the part on the other side and draw the second half. You can do the same with the upper rail. This is a somewhat more complex shape. I just align it to the midline, which is 5 cm away from the top side. This is a pretty cool trick to achieve perfect symmetry with long sections. The short rails are conceptually the same, but since they are shorter, we can keep the whole shape in a pass. I cut the shape out of the band saw and work as close as possible to the line as possible. We could use the templates and lead a bounding workbench, but I simply sand the curves with the spindle grinder until the pencil lines are back. And now we can take our first dry assembly. By the way, I know that some of you ladies think of my classic Ness Kapuzen Polysene and think, yes, that's what I mean, but calm down, I'm happy married. The shelf will now consist of boards that are enough for another rail. And although I roughly know how long they should be, nothing is going on about the measurement directly at the assembly. That's why I never cut the inner parts out of the final measure. It always goes around the relative measure. Before I cut the bars into the final length, I let them grow too big so that I can calculate the distance. I use some 3-8 inch distance holders to see how close we are. So I can either adjust the size of the gaps or the width of the boards to get the perfect distance. The last board on each side has to be covered around the legs. I do that with the band saw. Now I'm going to lay out a few dominoes. I plan two per layer. Alternatively, you can also use double or pocket screws or just draw a kind of haze in the spring connection. It's up to you. Now I'm going to cut the layers into their final length and break the base so that we can make our gaps. I only attached the domino positions to one of the rails. Therefore I will use these two layers to make the base. I really want these boards to be stable. Therefore I use the domino XL for stronger connections. The domino stones I have on hand are a bit too long. Therefore I will shorten them on the band saw. To make the glue easier, I first glue the dominoes into the domino holes of the ladders. As soon as these are dry, I can continue to build another dry assembly. These are many connections that have to be perfectly matched. Therefore it is a good idea to test everything first. These are about 80 kilos of sweet Italian meat on top and these boards do not bend at all. Now I add an additional rail that supports the upper boards after the circle has been cut out. As soon as the connecting pieces are finished, I cut the board to the final width. To attach the rolls to the legs, I first drill a small hole in the guide and then a large 2,132 hole. Now I turn on an easy lock thread. These are actually made of metal, but have also been very proven with wood. The roll can then be screwed directly into the foot. Now I can actually mount the curved ladders on the side rails so that I don't have to worry about anything when I glue them. And then I can continue with the long rails under construction groups. I am in the happy position to have many chic coals, but there really is no cheaper option to make a long coals than a pipe. After the two coals have dried, I can glue the rest of the sockets. That took me over 20 minutes. Therefore, I am glad that I have decided for polyurethane glue. Either glue it on water-based glue or let the foams swell so strongly that they can only be assembled hard. But this poly glue works really wonderfully there. And with the small spray bottle here the foams are only sprayed with a little water. The moisture helps the glue to harden. Many people don't Scratch the foam off as long as it'still damp. Clean the rest with a little tapestry. And if the glue has dried, you can scratch off all remaining remains, grind or grind. With flat parts Let's come to the top. The top has two endskiens and in between a row of ladders, which are all three quarters of a inch thick. The distance between the ladders is also 38 inches. This time I use the normal domino stone, because we have it here with thinner material. I round each layer a little bit and then add a little more polyurethane glue to the t-nangs. The glue dries up. Everything can be added without much effort. While the glue dries, I start with the finish of the sock. Normally I would pre-make all these strips to make the work easier, but because of the pandemic it takes much longer to get into the order, so that I simply didn't finish the finish right away. So I switch to a good podcast The paint I use is a product from Osmo for the outside. It contains a pigment that blocks UV radiation and the hard wax oil removes moisture. It is basically a product that can be applied with a brush and can be washed off and must be renewed annually. The funny thing is that the color despite the pigmentation is not as far away from the distance as sepally would look with nothing than a clear paint. So, now back to our beginning. I use a file between the lath to make the hard, free edges softer. Then I can smooth the plate on both sides smooth. Next, I add a slight round to the end, because rounds make life just better. The stitch saw leaves a rough cut, so I clean it with a block drill and round it off. I smooth the rest of the hand and smooth the edges and corners. Now we have to take this nice plate and cut a hole in it. With a stitch saw, that would be a bit too rough. That's why I use a TML arm. On a piece of waste, I mark a pen and knife then the radius of our circle. For a large green egg in the size XL, it is about 33 cm. I drill a hole at both places with a quarter inch hole. One side is for the quarter inch mill and the other side for the quarter inch mill. Now I grow the side with the pins, so that it slides slightly and attach my mill with double-sided tape on the other side. And the thing doesn't move at all. Now I find the center point and draw roughly my 26 and a half inch circle. That shows me where I have to attach the double-sided tape. Then I can round a thin piece of waste wood and turn the piece. This carrier piece is a bit too small for me. This carrier piece holds the parts together safely, after the mill has separated from the rest of the table plate. Next, I drill a 6 mm large hole in the middle for the TML arm. To prevent the boards from rattling, Insert my 3 eighth inch plate between each of the plates and only apply a little bit of glue pressure. Now we just have to drive circles and make easy passes. When we are done, we can lift the table plate. I have to let something fall in, which I do with the remaining circle. If you have ideas, let me know in the comments. I have a few small pieces. So I round them off and grind them a little to smooth them out. Now I can compare the table plate with the lower part, by applying the finish. I screw all four wheels on and turn the lower part with the right side up. Now comes the table plate. Yeah, baby! I center the table plate on the outside and attach it to the square piece with these practical small clamps on the places where the cross section supports the cut boards. I add a little silicone to the table plate to make the board look more beautiful. If I have more of these clamps, I may use them to attach each board to the rail. My egg is not yet assembled. So I just have to insert the floor. The egg weighs about 98 kilograms. Without a lid, I don't know, the floor weighs maybe 45. 5 kilograms. But with a foil that protects the wood and a belt that is wrapped around the ventilation opening, I really had no big problems getting the thing in the table. I have to put the board on the table plate. But first I have to make a small change. The big green egg grip is very nice and nice, but it slides after a small evaluation. Okay, that's better. So, the first time I have a frying pan, I have to use a frying pan. I have to use a frying pan. That's better. So, the first time I cooked a frying pan with something corn, completely Not bad at all. The second time I prepared my favorite dish. Ribs. And it was a great day. The children played in a pool, which Nicole bought and probably landed on the mill in a week. Daggy got a slightly urgently needed color and the smell of smoke was in the neighborhood, while my big green egg was pushing in front of it. That was my weekend. Now I'm pretty excited about my build. I have a lot of space on the right of the grill. I even had space to put my mini-axe up there. Just a short proof of safety. I'm not really going to use this thing at temperatures above the smoke temperature level. Maybe 225, 230 u00b0 C. M. And in general, this air gap is enough to light the heat. If you set a lot higher temperatures, it will be a little uncomfortable. And I would recommend just letting it You should maybe put it on a few stone bricks. Something that won't let the heat penetrate through the wood. That could potentially be dangerous. So research it well and protect yourself when you build something Just think about it, that the gap here is due to the shape of the ice has increased. When you put it a little higher. And then it is of course also separated from the shelf. And something else. Big Green Egg is making a mark covering. Wouldn't it be nice if you just put it on here? I actually tried to fit it to the size of the table of Big Green Egg. So it fits very well. Thank you very much for watching. Guys, I hope your grill season has started well, if you find meat. If you want to build your own Big Green Egg dish, you can find it on rotwisperer. com. and as always, we look forward to your support.