Staples

Ladies and gentlemen, we have a machine that consists of almost exclusively sheet metal. The hefters are actually the best category of objects, because you can immediately understand them. But if you let them lie down, important details will fall on for weeks. One of them has disturbed me, but you can't see what happens when you use them. That's why we are now building a large copy with a transparent front, so that we can look at it with a high-speed camera. Let'start with what brought me to this video, my love for sheet metal mechanics. Let's take a look at this little slide that holds the hefter and lets it fold up to fill in. And then let's take a look down here. Normally, you can't make sharp right corners at the bend. It's always round. But to make this slide work, we need a sharp corner. What did they do? They made a small save. They cut them short and then only curved corner and not curved up. In this way, they make what I would call an artificial corner. That's great. And you can imagine that in larger sizes to make when you need it from any reason. The slide is folded He probably folded it And the lock is so pointed. Because if you have the slide in the wrong position, it doesn't climb in. But what is that? It is slipped under the lock itself. That's because there is a second lock. Such mechanisms always remind me that the function of an object is usually only a shape. So if you are a little clever, you can do something simple That just makes me dizzy. There are only a few metal parts with a very specific shape. This old Swinger Line 747 was recommended to me by the enthusiastic hefter Keef as the basis for the larger version. Instead of a slide, he uses the axis, which is wrapped around the spring, as a click mechanism to hold it closed. This new 747 uses only two curved slabs that fit into these small holes. Here is another nice design. You could think that this is a wider knot so that it doesn't fall out, but no. It is a straight shaft that can move a little and it is held in the middle by the spring rod. This rod is held by the slabs in position. So if we push the slabs all the way back, we can bend the rod so far that it can be removed from its slabs, whereby we can remove the main axis. And then the whole thing can be taken apart. I think it is really held together very elegantly. Time for the emboss. The part that bends the heel clamps. The clamps are bent for a continuous connection to the inside or when you turn the emboss out for a temporary connection to the outside, since you can pull it out sideways, because the clamps form a more twisted line than a closed loop. And now we want to see of course how the bend process takes place. So we build a big tacker. If you want to see the whole manufacturing process from the stem to the tacker, you can do that on my other channel Noh One of the most tricky parts for me is of course the emboss, because I can't make it out of wood. Here comes the sponsor of this video into the game, JLCC NC. I didn't just throw away the emboss, but these slabs are also open in front, so that you can hopefully see how the band is made. Then I uploaded it to your portal, an offer was received and a few days later it came with the post from China. It only took three to five days. You say, I would have forgotten, when opening to print. Here you see the converted film material, how I pack it again. Take a look. So beautiful. We process all possible materials, but I just decided for a favorite steel, because it doesn't have to be extremely strong or light or something It just has to be steel. If you want to have something CNC milled, JLCC NC can do it. Simple, complex individual pieces A thousand parts for competition-friendly prices and without hidden cost of orientation. They have three 5-axis CNC machines. Three axes machines are, as you can imagine, X, Y and Z, and five axes machines add in general two rotation axes of the part, so that it can come from different directions. You get a 70-dollar voucher on the link below. Thanks to JLCC NC for sponsoring this video. Then we of course have to make a few more steel clamps. Let's take a look. You need a possibility to cut off the strips individually. I always thought, a steel clamp strip is just a piece of sheet metal that is almost cut through, but when we look at it under the microscope, we can see that they are actually glued together. With these steel clamps, we can actually bend the strips, which the used glue will give a flexible glue. These strips are glued together as long turns before they are cut and then bent. Otherwise, you never get the exact same length as here, completely to the point of the whole surface that you would have with the individual wire pieces. No thanks, because it depends on the order of the work steps. We also see that the steel clamp wire is in a wider direction than in the other. That should ensure that it bends inside or outside and not to the front or back. And the tips are cut off with a cutter, which has a slightly flat angle of rotation, even flatter than my wire cutters, I think. And with clamps, that's even helpful, because they become sharp through the loose cut. In my great design, I have attached the clamps with a small metal strip, instead of sticking around with glue. I first carried out a test with a magnification of this small strip and functioned with 0. 3 mm chains. Sometimes, because the corner has to bent through the metal, it becomes narrower on the outside and the strip is already halfway through. I really With a huge laser, we cut a piece of sheet metal into strips, which were connected to these strips, and then they were bent into the shape of a real clamp. That was just in my local metal workshop. Great, guys, OK, let's load it. Let's put the Kronos 4K12 high-speed camera in. Thanks, Chrome Technologies, for sending it to me. And then the first test with 1. 000 FPS. Eh, there are parts that work. You press on the clamp. The clamps release from the strip. There is enough force to bend the clamp. There is even enough force to destroy yourself. I understand. A mistake that I made with my design of this apple is that I made this slit much too small. As you can see in the real apple, the imaginary circles would overlap quite strongly. In this way, the clamp has to bend less strongly, which costs less energy, and they have more play space to hit them at the right place. With the one I didn't do, I have to hit it exactly right. Otherwise it doesn't work. And as you can see, it hits somewhere else. My clamping clamps are also way too weak. They sometimes go a little bit into the wood. The reason why it bends too fast is because, among other things, I made it too long. I wanted to put large pieces of wood together and needed space to fold them. But what I didn'think of when you doubled the length of a col In any case, we have raised it with a little film magic. And now you can see the bend. And again, clasp. Now in close-up with 11,000 pictures per second, to clarify that. Interestingly, you can see that my large clamping clamps really bend along the curve of the emboss. While a normal clamping clamp works much flatter, if not always. If you look at the paper under the steel, you can see that it has to have the tip of the leg pushed inside when the top clamp has bent from the upper corner. And the paper is not strong enough to hold it in place. So it has a little bit. But if you take several layers of paper, then it is suddenly strong enough to hold the legs of the clamp in position. And then you can see that the curve of the emboss follows. I told you about week-long individualities. What you can see quite well is how the driver pushes the clamp away from the strip. When the emboss, the 747-Vetro and the large model, the driver is simply a bent piece of steel. When the old 747 you can also see that you only press the legs with these tip parts on the side. You ignore the crown as far as possible. But when the new model, however, only have a small recess in the middle. Interestingly, however, that it is not fixed. You can see that the tip makes a turn movement. You can actually see it very well when the large model. Because I placed the turning point a little too far up. That's why I had quite a few problems. In any case, it makes a circle. So you always have a few problems when you want to push something down. It's natural to be, you simply don't fix it at the turning point and let it follow a straight channel instead. Another thing you have done with this new model is that you also have the lower shaft clamp holder with a spring. To make sure that it never really clings. Then there is one of my favorite steel of the machine, the spring, which pushes the clamps forward or pulls them to recharge after the use. There are two widely spread methods to push the clamps forward. A pressure spring and a pull spring. I think the pull spring is much more elegant. Look at it. It opens itself. You don't have to hold it anymore to put new shaft clamps in. The problem with the spring is now that it takes space and you can see that on the boss level, which uses a pressure spring, where only about half of the magazine is usable because the spring can't press together until it's zero. The same happens with the pull spring, but vice versa. So you can't just pull something all the way forward. To avoid that, you have to pull the clamps in the way when you're loading them. To solve both problems, you turn the spring around and connect it to the top side. That's how it always has to be on the half of its size. And because it is connected to the top side, you can even pull the spring out of the way and even pull the slits in the other direction. I love it. An important detail is of course that the slits are really held tight. I forgot that with my big shaft. The spring pulls or presses on the slits, which only has two mentioned aspects. First, the spring is mounted on the back side so that it can be pushed out of the spring by the folding point. Second, it only presses against the shaft clamps and not against the top side or the crown. You can see it very well when the shaft clamps move downwards. The crown immediately loses contact. Now, the slits work almost So when you press on the crown, all possible crazy things happen. Another feature that most of the slits have is that you can fold them up completely to, for example, attach something to a rod. Slits are a term for the shaft, where the ends are not bent. If you do that often, you could try to swing it around But this one is already made and is really nothing special. It is only a little more powerful and heavier at the ends. Very practical. If you, for example, build steam locks with these large plates, but some things do not wear a hammer. And you will see that the clamps often bend through pressure, instead of pushing them in. Here comes the tacker into the game. This uses a spring-loaded mechanism to shoot the clamp at a very high speed. The reason why tacker clamps can shoot in harder materials is that they generally use thicker tackers. But even if they can use the same clamps, the tacker could use a bit harder materials for two reasons. Tractability and the rate. To give a clamp, the middle part must be accelerated sideways. And the faster that has to happen, the more force is needed. With very, very high speeds, clamps and nails are again bent, just because they do not want to accelerate sideways. The rate of the den is a little more exciting, even if you think it plays a smaller role. Materials behave differently, depending on the speed you try to move them. Oh Black is of course the most famous example, but also coal-fiber steel. From the clamps, at higher speeds, something will become stiffer. But that is also for wood. We have to consider which bridges there are. The clamp is broken when it bends and it will never break. A stiffer, a bit more brittle clamp is in order, because it never becomes brittle enough in this scenario to tear. It is different with wood. First we want to make it saggy. And directly under the clamp we break the wood. We do not want to waste energy by bending it. So you can imagine that stiffer wood helps with the bend. The current task today consists of finding a blade mechanism and explaining a few interesting details. You can do that in the Discord task channel. I will make the link in the doobly-doo. And we'll Oh, and don't worry, if you see this video a year later. I would still be happy to hear from you.