Garagistic

Here is Matthew Gargistig. Today we are talking about the Solid Mountershifter, its options and how to install it in a few cars. There were many questions about it, so we thought, do We will talk about it in detail in a moment. Basically, this is a Solid Mount shifter. We have now made it very individually adjustable. Different sizes and heights of the shaft. The shaft is adjustable at the bottom. We have basically taken the screws at the bottom and screws at the top so that you can adjust the height slightly. You can adjust the shaft and basically a Solid Mount chassis shifter is attached. Its shift lever only, but what is even more important, ensures that your shift is very, very, very short. But it is adjustable, so you can adjust it a little. Basically, all components of the carrier mount group in your Solid shifter or in your normal carrier mount group are over-liquid, which leads to a very, very good shift feeling. So they are completely adjustable. So we have different lengths and heights at the shift levers and different types of shift knobs. There are no lowered and lowered options so that they can apply BMW emblems. They are completely reversible. Basically, there is this sandwich plate that is attached at the bottom. In this way, they do not change permanently on your vehicle. And for those who want an OEM plus shift lever, which you do notice, that you are in the car with the series- Basically, this is a replacement of a series- That's basically everything he has with the Z3 shift lever together. Only the height. So people can have a idea of u200bu200bit, whether it is too high. Basically, it is supposed to represent the work height. M, but you have to think that the power output rises when you have a very short shift lever So it is one of these things where you have to go into a compromise. You can put it under the series- The higher the wave is. The power output becomes less and that will be a big problem. Okay, that's fine, it works. What is the adjustableness of this shift lever? We have attached a nut to the thread and two-point screws on the side. In this way, you can actually move it up or down. You will see, I continue and just move it up. You can see that there is a slot there, which ensures the positioning and that it can not be solved. In addition, it helps the people who use the OEM emblem in the original style in the right direction. You can adjust it here step by step and the adjustment screw is actually at the same place as the bottom. So it is very easy to adjust it right now. On this side it is very, very helpful, because the adjustableness is much better there. Basically, you adjust the position by adjusting upwards and downwards and that can be very, very advantageous. Because you can either make it super short or a little longer, depending on the need for daily use. In this sense, it is super adjustable. Another thing we have done and that we have been very helpful for was adding a bronze bearing. In this way, it is self-saving and basically offers you a long, disturbing operation. So a really cool little feature that we have added there. M and that is again this sandwich plate that we have talked about, which is screwed on the car below and which we will show you in a moment. After you have safely lifted the car, you must first think that you now have to use a kind of solid gearbox like our 8A95 AD al And that is because the fixed shift lever is fixed. So it is connected to the chassis. So you don't want the engine and gearbox to move and the shift lever simply doesn't move. That could cause potential damage if you can't put in a gear anymore, simply a total bad situation. We want to avoid that. With this special installation, we will use Adapoli and that is the softest thing you can use, but since it is a screw-in design, the gearbox doesn't move. Now you want to have your engine and gearboxes have the same hardness. In this way, no further potential damage can occur. This special car already has all-wheel drive upgrades. Basically, the working gear group is no longer what they can achieve. So it has a Gargistic DSS-R, it has the front round Gargistic Dalerin Buxen, it has an OEMZ 3-shift lever and a rear gear group from Poly. Basically, that's what you can achieve with the OEMZ. Basically, the level of the fixed shift lever is the level and we will do that today. If you exchange the gearboxes, you have to lift the gearbox slightly. You can do this with a car lift or a diesel device if you have a lift stage. If you have removed the gearboxes in this way, you can simply exchange them. M. Ideally not So, you just push it on top. Pull it from below. And the same on the other side. So, everything is still a little loose at the moment. In this way, you can let it go a little and slowly let it go and then you can pull everything tight. Pay attention to that, that nothing really stands under tension. Very simple, just leave it there for safety reasons. And now we can pull everything tight. That's all. So, we have at least done that. In order. So, what we have here to explain it easier is basically the serial assembly. This is a JetRack 260, as you can find in E30. This is the most common configuration, but basically that is what we are talking about. Also for E36, E46 and many other cars. What you have here is the assembly of the serial assembly. With E30, E36 and E46, it is a very simple assembly. What you have here is the assembly of the serial assembly. With E30, E36 and E46, everything is the same. The length change is basically the only change. Our solar chassis holder basically replaces all these components with the exception of the wheel hub. We explain to you basically what it would mean to do this without the car. If you would calculate that now. If you would overhaul your working-side carrier group, the most common configuration would be a Z3-share lever, a new clip, beautiful round bucks, a brand new shell, a poly or dealer-share lever bucks and a DSS-R. That will make your system very, very firm. But that's the best thing. What it gives? And you have already given more money for a solid shale lever. So if you are not sure whether you want to buy a carrier shale lever, calculate it. Because if you decide to install all these components, the process is basically the same as with a solid shale lever. You still have to remove the clip. You also have to remove the DSS-R, the wheel hub joint. You have to take the Z3 shale lever out of the shell. So if you have a limited budget, you should consider whether you want to use a solid shale lever or overhaul the Z3 shale lever. The process is the same and the costs are almost the same. The most difficult part of this process is the removal of the B-clip. We basically show you the method we have for the best. You have to lower the drive a little to get a large part of it. But if you have done that, you can actually achieve it quite easily. You have to put the screwdriver in here and then turn it slightly against the watcher. Then the clip just comes out and just let it slide out Done. After you have come so far, you basically only have to remove the wheel hub or DSS-R. To do this, you just have to push out a few pins. As soon as these two things are basically removed, you basically have to push them forward and push it out of the rear carrier box. These are the rear Gistik polyboxes, which only serve as a reference. You basically just put it on the car and push it almost forward. It would slide up and down at the end. If you push it forward, you can remove it from this carrier and at this point it is free. And this thing is still in here. You can remove this switch optionally to get it out of the carrier, but in most cases you can, if you have come so far, probably take the whole thing out of the car. As it is, depends on the chassis, but in the big one and the whole one you should get it out of the car. It could be a little more difficult with the E30, because you actually have to pull it out of the rear carrier over this small edge. When you want to pull it out, there is no lip when you pull it out. But that is basically the only difference between these two driving modes. If you have come so far with the installation, we really recommend you to exchange your gear lever, because this side game really influences. People think that the fixed gear lever is a big part of this game and it does the same, but that is nothing compared to a DSS-R setup. So you should basically exchange it against a DSS-R and basically just replace the gear lever. But that keeps it at two points. This is why the side plate is removed. So you really shouldn't install a fixed gear lever, because you still have a plate that moves sideways. You can imagine it A fixed gear lever influences the gear lever to build a DSS-R, which would be the first step in the installation of a mounted gear lever, so you just put it on the gear lever. Ideally, you should replace this, because there is a foam block inside that breaks the time. So you should replace it You just have to use our pins, you just push the pins Through. There is a small dealer's kit on each side. You put it in there and insert a safety ring. The same thing is done on the back, where the actual fixed gear lever is attached. Basically, the fixed gear lever would then be on top of the car. So you have to find a buddy, M, and this side is on top of the car, and this plate here is actually a sandwich from the underside of the gearbox tunnel. And the whole thing comes together There it is. Just Basically, this is now your brand new construction group. So you remove all the carriers, all the bucks, everything. This is fixed on the chassis mounted, and they have their DSS-R, and there is almost no side game in this part. One of the features, that is exclusive to the GARDIS DEC SOLID MOUNCHAL TABLE, is the fact that it is very adjustable in height and in the hub. So here, there is basically a screw and on the other side. And basically, you can move it up and down through this turning point, or actually change the hub of your shift lever. We will go into that later. What the height is, you can move this height up and down slightly. It's not much, it's a small adjustment, but it helps in this way. You can move the shift lever up and down a little bit, but if you really wish for a short shift, which is at the end, you can actually move it up. You just swing it up. If you have found the desired height, fix it with the screws and done. You should now adjust everything before you install it in your car. Basically, you try to find the height that you If you want to adjust this as a whole, you can adjust it by moving it up and down. If you adjust this with the screws lower or higher, basically adjust the shift path and the feeling of the shift lever. So it's always good to test it and see the gears through and see how you Also, make sure that there is enough space for the game. You don't have touch the gearbox, the V-Bo or similar. The same applies to the top side. If you adjust the height to a desired height and this actually touches something, you don't switch to the full gear. You have the possibility to shift the height to the top if needed. Basically, you just have to turn it and set it up until it meets your taste. That's all. Now, where we are so far, we will attach these building groups to the car. For this next section, you probably need a friend who will help you. Okay, now we are at the top of the vehicle. I just wanted to give you a rough idea of how much is going to change in terms of play and height. At the moment, we have basically taken the setup of the vehicle, the gearbox group, as possible. Here is a DSSR, there is a rear axle, you already know, all the stuff I explained from the bottom of the car. Basically, the shift lever feels There is a bit of play in the gear. A lot of play in the reverse gear. Not bad, do In this case, we will use the OEM option, which is basically still on the chassis, but you can use your gear lever and the gear knob of your choice. The first step you have to take is basically to remove all parts of the interior. In this way, we can pull them from bottom to bottom. You already know, the entire gear lever group from bottom to the car. In addition, you have the shift lever, your gear lever and the actual rubber insulation underneath it. Now we will start with the assembly of all the work-based components. In this special car, there is a GISTIC DSSR, where it basically takes the parts from the car. Next, you have to remove the front clip. Now, where all the series of components are on the way, you can push this solid shift lever down there and then your buddy will basically be the one who holds the plate. So you can turn these screws in and hold everything together. So you will see here in the edge that this thing is basically taken. Just pull it in You will see that it really sits well. Just I went down. It's a bit Something that you have to keep in mind when setting up the DSR, is how much force you really want to have and how hard it should be. And that will actually change depending on which length you have chosen. We have set this car for example. It will have an upper shaft in the OEM style. In this way, this customer wants to basically use a series of shift buttons. He I'll show you now how much force it requires to be changed from this length to a middle or a long length without adjusting anything. Point! In addition, you will also find out how you can adjust the length to your needs. We are going to open it up. And you will see how much force you have to use to shift. I really need a lot of force to actually shift it. That'something you might prefer, if you prefer. But it's a lot of force. Especially for an everyday car. If you have this setting and use the series of shift buttons, you might not want to adjust it that much. All you have to do is move the adjustable version up so that it has a bit more shift. And that will lead to the force being slightly less. So, without adjusting anything, I'll show you how to feel it with a longer shaft. So just watch out. Basically, that's the feeling that I would notice more than mental notes. That also shows you how modular this setup is. If you decide for example for this OEM setup and want to have a setup for the race track, that's very easy. Just change it and put your race setup on it. And that's how it would feel here. As you can see, it is connected to much less force. I can actually do it almost with one or two fingers. So that's the difference. Without changing anything, just because the turning point is different, the power output is also higher. Okay, and only as a reference, the middle version. So the same length down, where the short version requires the biggest power output, the long version requires the lowest power output and then the middle version. As you can see, a bit more power output than the long version. But a bit less than the OEM height. And this would be my opinion personally for everyday life. We showed you in E30 how tight a shaft can be if you use the fixed shaft joint plus the DL-trim. So it was really tight. Here is the same build with a DSSR in an E36, but this front shaft joint was not changed. That was an OEM part. If you don't change it, keep a lot of play in the system The fixed shaft joint can therefore not compare to a very sl So if you have to replace the OEM parts that have to be replaced at the beginning, don't really replace and believe that the fixed shaft joint is not the same. So you can see that the OEM parts are not the same. If you don't replace the OEM parts that have to be replaced at the beginning, don't really replace and believe that the fixed shaft joint is the answer to everything and you fix the shaft joint. That's not the case. Here is an example for this. Here everything was changed. It's a fixed shaft joint. It's a DSSR, but a tool joint that has a lot of play. Look at it, even though the cast is really good. Look at the game from one side to the other. Look at it. DSR and the broken OEM parts are not repaired by the fixed shaft joint. If you had replaced the fixed shaft joint in the front, this small joint with the small foam piece, then there would still be a lot of play. So if you can see from one side to the other, there is still play. So think about it. If you realize that your system still has a lot of play, ask yourself, did you replace the fixed shaft joint in the front? Are all components fixed on the side? How many kilometers have you driven on the buckelle? Think about it. All these things s What affects the shift path, the solid shift lever is drawn through. Now you can basically apply your inner exhaust pipe. So you can basically use the series- The middle and large actually have a too large diameter. So you have to modify your shift bag when you want to use these. And basically everything is simply plugged in to everything as it was plugged in. So you just put it on Then it looks Then you can either plug it in depending on the shift button group. With this special setup there is a shift screw that basically looks There you have it. So you have your solid shift lever hidden under the whole shift bag. So you can definitely say that it does not belong to a work-based shift lever. Heat, heat. Okay. Oh, whoa. What?