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Today we're going to show you how to install the 2008 to 2014 WRX and 2005 to 2009 Legacy GT GrimSpeed Top Mount Intercooler. Now the installation should take you one to two hours depending on your level of experience and how quickly you're working, but as always if you've got any questions or concerns during the installation feel free to give us a call or shoot us an email. So you'll need a 3-8 inch ratchet and extension and a 13 millimeter and 12 millimeter socket. You'll need a 1. 25 inch ratchet and extension and a 10 millimeter and 8 millimeter socket. You'll also need a 10 millimeter wrench and a P Now in the box here we've got, you'll open it up, you'll find your package by car, a couple stickers and of course your GrimSpeed stencil that you can use to stencil the GS logo if you'd Next you'll find our splitter, t Go ahead and pull that out of its bag and set that aside for now. And then below that piece of styrofoam you've got the rest of the components of the kit. T Here's your hardware kit and O-ring, t You've got your two power coated brackets, and then you've got your turbo outlet hose. And lastly you've got your gasket pieces that will be installed on the splitter. And the first there's two pieces cut to length, t It'll catch and you'll feel it kind of pull all the way in. Now if you end up needing to trim your gasket bulb, that's just fine. We do cut them to length but we err on the long end rather than the short side. So then you'll start at one side here and press down just in the same way. There'space left on the splitter for the gasket to slide right up inside that second vein. And then same t Now to install the splitter we first need to remove the stock unit. The rear of the splitter is held in by a couple of tabs so when you take that last screw out you'll want to hold onto it and then it should pop right out. Now we'll be installing the Grim Speed portion of the splitter. To do that we've got to remove t It's got a handful of pop clips around the outside edge and then some pushed in rubber features here at the top. Go ahead and pop those pop clips out with your screwdriver if you've got a pop clip tool. And then we'll tackle the pushed in rubber pieces here. I You should have no trouble getting them out. Set that aside you won't need that again. Now the Grim Speed splitter you slide that right into place. It's got four holes on the top and four holes on the bottom. And then we'll use the Grim Speed, the splitter hardware kit. Small Allen head screws. It's a three millimeter Allen head with a nut on top with a nut that requires a ten millimeter box end wrench or a ten millimeter ratchet. So we'll get all these in here finger tight so that there'still a little bit of movement. And then we'll go back and tighten them. Now we'll be reinstalling the splitter assembly onto the hood. You can see these two slots here, the two tabs in the back of the splitter will slide right in. It'll be a little bit tighter t And then you go ahead and reinstall those six screws leaving them loose and then go back and snug them up at once you've got them all in there. And then same with the pop clips push those right in. Now if you've got an OEM engine cover installed go ahead and remove those four fasteners wanted each corner. We don't here so I'll just move that out of the way. Now the first thing you want to do is pull the vacu And then you can use a ten millimeter wrench to remove the ten the two screws that hold the bypass valve to the stock intercooler. Now you want to set those aside you won't need them again for the Grim Speed intercooler. Now use a 12 millimeter socket to remove the three screws that are holding the bracket to the side of the top mount intercooler. T And then again set that aside as well you won't be needing that either. Now you remove the two 12 millimeter bolts holding the top mount to the turbo. And then we'll use a flathead screwdriver to loosen the hose clamp on the throttle body hose. And with that the intercooler should be loose and ready to pop out. Now go ahead and use your flathead screwdriver to access the hose clamp that's holding the throttle body hose to the throttle body loosen that up and then pop that coupler off. Now here's your rear bracket. T A smaller hole is going to be mounting just above your pitch stop. So we'll want to install the rubber isolator to the bigger hole. I pop that through with a washer and a bolt and we'll go back and snug that up nice and tight and then we'll do the same t You'll remove the nut and the washer from the vibration isolator as it's And then slip that in the top hole there, washer, nut. And then if you've got a 13 millimeter socket on an extension you should be able to slip it right through that slot. If you can't a wrench will do just fine. Now we'll go into the engine bay and use a 10 millimeter socket to remove the bolt above the pitch stop that's holding the AC line. We'll put our bracket on with the bend facing back towards the firewall and then install the provided screw w Nice and snug. We'll remove the nut and the washer and set them aside to be reinstalled later. Now we'll use the two provided 12 millimeter bolts to bolt the front bracket down to the motor. Now you'll want to start with the bolt that's closest to the passenger side of the ve That'll give you some working room to get that bolt started. It's a little tight down there for your hand. Get that one started and you want to get the center one started before going back and snugging both of them up. Now we'll install the turbo adapter. T You'll notice that the O-ring is not tight in that gland. That's by design. Once it's tightened down it will expand and create a pressure tight seal. You want to go ahead and install the two bolts that you used to secure the stock top mount to the turbo and then go ahead and tighten those down. The two cast al Now we'll install the throttle body hose. You want to pre-install the hose clamp on that hose, orienting it such that the screwdriver can be accessing the clamp as shown here. And then tighten that clamp just enough that it's not slipping around on the hose when you're installing it. Now we'ready to slide that hose into position. Now when you have t You can look through the intake manifold runners to confirm that if you'd Make sure the outlet port of that hose is sticking straight up. We'll move the bypass valve here so that's not in our way. Then we'll use our flathead screwdriver to sneak in there and re-tighten that hose clamp. T Now we'll go and install the turbo outlet hose. This hose looks So you want to make sure you've got it oriented correctly so that looking down on the hose it looks Then we'll slip that right on again with a hose clamp already installed. We'll tighten that later. Now t We've got the top mount, the bypass valve hose, and nipple and the two clamps. Now the top mount is sealed with caps on each of the three ports here before s Now we'ready to go ahead and set the top mount in place. Taking note of the two brackets that you need to have aligned. It's helpful if you can see around the back bracket to make sure you get that one started, and then you can use the front bracket sort of as a reference point, and it should drop right in. We'll get the driver'side seated in the throttle body hose if it's not already. Make sure you have a hose clamp on there, and then we can snug up that hose clamp with a flathead screwdriver. For all these hose clamps you can also use an 8 millimeter socket if that's easier for you. Now we'll go ahead and remove the nuts from the studs on the top mount. You do not want to have to adjust the top mount studs. Those are in very securely, so you shouldn't have to hold those in place. Now you want to put the bypass valve on, making sure that the OEM gasket or rubber o-ring is still on there, and then we'll put those nuts back on the studs. Nice and snug. Now you'll notice the stock bypass valve is pretty flexible. The hose is pretty flexible, so we'll insert t It's got a lip in t It might take a little bit of finagling to get the bypass valve adapter hose back on there, but you should be good to go. Then you can use the two provided hose clamps to make sure that is tightly sealed. You don't want to get any of these vacu Then go ahead and rotate that as necessary and get it onto the stock bypass valve. We'll go ahead and reinstall the vacu Now move back over to the passenger side of the car. Loosen up t We'll go ahead and snug up that hose clamp. You'll notice here why the hose is designed to be oblong the way that it is. It's a very tight fit. Go ahead and tighten up that lower hose clamp as well. 8mm socket and ratchet come in real handy there. Then we'll go ahead and put the washer and the nut down onto the front bracket and snug that up with a 13mm wrench. We'll move to the back. We'll slip the washer on. Here's a little trick. I have to use a piece of the plastic packaging over the end of the socket and then I push the nut into it and that gives just enough of a tight fit that it'll hold the nut on there w It's a tight fit down there. Get that nut started carefully. Snug it down. You should be able to grab that piece of plastic. I know a lot of people use tape as well. There you have it. Your install is done. You'll want to check your engine bay for loose tools or fasteners. Then go ahead and start your car up and check for boost leaks. Of course as always feel free to contact us if you've got any questions or concerns during your installation.