Black Market Racing

Today we wanted to film a quick video telling all the differences between the catch can kits that we offer for the B58, we have brackets to fit any Gen 2 B58 car. I have all three of them in front of me and I also have our catch cans in two different options, one in Stealth Black and one in Raw Billet. So let's go over the details and talk about everyt So t If your car has a top mount full frame turbo kit, you need to use the top mount bracket. T But t It will Here I have our bracket for the A90 Supra. It mounts on the strut tower above the turbo and be It will work with a stock cold air intake or any aftermarket cold air intake. We also have the BMW or G-Series mounting bracket. It mounts in a similar location. Now both of these brackets will come with hardware. One is an M10 by 1. 5 bolt. You can choose to tap the hole in the strut tower or you can use the included M8 bolt that's 30 millimeters in length and you can run the bolt through the strut tower and put the nut on the bottom in the wheel well. We You can pick up an M10 by 1. 5 tap at most hardware stores. Every catch can kit includes everyt They're all swivel connections. You can adjust how you want to run your lines. We're going to show you in a moment once we install on our M240 how we But it's totally up to you. If you buy the version of the kit that does include the oil cap, it'll come with an oil cap and a radi So it's everyt If later you decide you don't want to vent somet All of our catch cans come with a serviceable drain bolt on the bottom. It should be checked at least once a month. Every car is different. Some cars make more PCV than others. Personally, I have a 6870 on my car. It's making around 38 pounds of boost. And I checked my catch can about once a month and I have to drain it. T Some people have a lot more blow by, a lot more PCV build up. They have to service it more often. It's really situational. Either way, we have an easily accessible drain bolt on the bottom so that you can service it. You can also attach a hose if you wanted to and run it under the car with a valve. You can kind of set it up however you want. And that's how we wanted these catch cans to be is universal. PCV is opinionated. A lot of people would say you should vent some t So were asking questions. We kind of just decided that were going to make it universal. You can set them up however you want. It's an extremely universal kit, pretty much made to suit everybody. So hopefully now we're going to j The first t You don't need to remove the bung. All you have to do is unplug it and tuck it away. There's also a hose clamp here that's going to detach t So once you have both of those off, we can remove the stock air box just by lifting up and there's rubber grommets that hold it into place. And you have the stock air box. Now if you're mounting in the hybrid location You'll need to select that, check out if you're going to use a stock air box. Any aftermarket air boxes won't need t Everyt We're going to remove t You notice there's two screws on either side. You're going to use a T20 Torx to remove those first. Okay, next, you'll notice there's a retaining clip on the top that holds t So you can use a flathead screwdriver to pry underneath. And once you have that off, you can start wiggling t Sometimes it's tight. Sometimes the O-rings are dry, but because we just assembled it, ours is pretty loose. Now we can set our factory air box aside and move on to the PCV side of the car and start working on installing our CCV fitting. So next, we're going to unplug the factory wastegate so we can clear up a little more room. Move t Next, we're going to remove the PCV line from the stock turbo inlet. I'm going to use a flathead screwdriver to start t And you'll see it'll just snap out of place on both sides. Now we can remove the PCV line from the inlet. Now we're going to want to remove take off our engine cover. And now we can see the factory PCV connection to the valve cover. And these can be removed with pliers or by squeezing them with your hands. They break all the time so you'll want to be careful with it, although we won't be reusing that leaves us with one more connection going to an evap hose. We're going to do the same t You can squeeze with your fingers or carefully with some pliers because they're easy to snap in half. And then we can disconnect the wiring harness and now we have the PCV hose. We're going to set t Now we're going to remove the factory inlet elbow. There's a C-clip that holds t Sometimes you can reach underneath and get it started and pull it right out with your hands. So the disconnected position. T So now it's locked completely out. There is one more connection for the CCV that goes into the intake. It's just below the auxiliary water p The same t You'll be able to see that better once you're at that point in the car. And now the whole inlet elbow can be removed from the car. And again, they'll have to disconnect from the stock turbo inlet elbow in order to remove that elbow. And later we're going to completely take off t Next, we're going to remove the stock turbo inlet using a T30 Torx driver. There's three bolts and they won't come completely out of the intake so you don't have to worry about dropping them. There's one towards the top of the compressor housing and then two more on the bottom left hand side and the bottom right hand side. But one in the back is kind of hard to see so you can kind of reach around with your fingers to find it and loosen it up. And the final one all the way in the back. Easiest t Okay, so it's freed now. You can pull factory inlet straight off. There will be the PCV heater connected to t It'll come out with t Now we've removed everyt If you look just above the charge pipe and next to the turbo inlet you'll see that plastic fitting from the hose that we disconnected from the inlet earlier. It swivels, you can rotate it down and there's a T30 Torx head on a plastic screw to take that out. Carefully remove the plastic screw and the CCV fitting will pull out of the block and seal with an O-ring. So the first t We're going to apply a little bit of heat to t It doesn't need a lot and there you go. We're not going to be reusing t So now if you're already using the T-fitting you'll have to go to an automotive store and pick up some vacu I'm using a 3 quarter bypass for this will always see vacu The other t So we'll block that off here and these are ready to go back on the car later on. So we'll set these aside. Now we're going to prepare our new CCV fitting to be installed in the car. We're going to reuse the factory O-ring from the stock CCV fitting and slide it over our new billet CCV fitting just Now t We can start installing our catch can. We're going to remove the CCV fitting from our hose, set our hose aside and insert your new CCV fitting into the block where the old CCV fitting came out. And you can see that fitting right above your charge pipe and the oil feed line for the turbo. Pop that in there and we're going to use our new included hardware to fasten the CCV fitting to the block. And we're using a 5mm hex key. And our new CCV fitting is installed in the block. Now we're going to use either 90 degree end of our hose and run it underneath the charge pipe and attach it to your new CCV fitting on the block. Now I'm going to use an open ended wrench to snug up t And now we're done installing the CCV hose. Now that you have your CCV fitting in place, you can reinstall the factory turbo inlet and the factory turbo elbow as long as you have capped off all your necessary hoses including the Y fitting and then we'll install the catch can. So we have the factory turbo elbow back in place and the hose coming up to our cold air intake. T Now with the C-clip disengaged on there it is. Now we'll re-engage the C-clip. Make sure it won't pop off and it's back into place. Now we'll reconnect t Next we'll reinstall the factory air box. Make sure that you plug back in your electronic wastegate and the PCV heater on the bottom of the turbo inlet. Now we'll reinstall the air box making sure our pins line up with your grommets. Pop that into place. Slide back on your intake tube. And at t Now if you're using a factory air box, we will include a cap for that resonator that will clip into place and seal the air inlet. We do recommend using an aftermarket intake with t It frees up a lot of room. But we'll leave that up to you. We do provide a plug if you need it. Next we're going to mount the black market race catch can. And t You can use an M10 by 1. 5 tap and run it straight through t It's already drilled out to the right size and use the included bolt to mount the catch can here. Or you can use the provided M8 bolt and go all the way through the strut tower. If you look underneath the wheel well you can jack the car up and you'll see the other end of the bolt to screw the nut on. We've already tapped out the strut tower on t 5 bolt. Use a 17mm wrench to tighten t And your catch can is now mounted in place. Next we're going to remove the oil cap with the radi T Next we're going to install the oil cap ventilation line. And we'll snug t And these lines don't have to be extremely tight to create a good seal. Now we're moving on to the radi T And then you'll use the included radi Now we're going to install the included 90 degree female-female flare fitting to our 90 degree T fitting. On the 6A end side of the catch can. And we'll want to rotate t You can now reach down and feed your CCV line up to the catch can. If you're using the stock intake, you can use the M10 by 1. 5 bolt. And we'll install then you can connect your oil cap ventilation hose. And you should keep all these fittings loose until you're finished installing and tightening at the end. In case you have to move anyt Now we can move on to the other side of the fitting. And we're going to connect the oil cap ventilation hose to the cap. And we're going to connect the oil cap ventilation hose to the cap. You can now finish installing and tightening at the end. In case you have to move anyt Now we can move to the dash 10. CCV fitting. And once you're satisfied with the routing of all your hoses you can tighten all these fittings into place. If Now the way that we prefer to do t Install the engine cover. You may have to move the lines around and make sure the fitting is in the right place and that is one full install. Hopefully now Good luck installing. You can always email us to have any questions.