Headlight Restoration

Welcome to another episode of the Headlight Restoration Pro where I will be showing you how to take headlights Crystal clear, Now let's get down to business. Starting off here with my P500 gold disc. T It's the best that I have found. If you go to If you start with a too abrasive pad you just have way more t You're making yourself work too hard because the more abrasive the sandpaper, the more divots and swirls and things So you have to clean them up more before you have more work to ac So P500 is a great starting point. Ladies and gentlemen all 500 discs are not the same. You pretty much get what you pay for. If you cut corners you're going to have a disc that's going to fall apart a quarter of the small cars in my experience generally have larger lights than the big cars. T So there's a lot of material to remove times being such a huge light. It's literally the size of maybe two and a half regular lights. So I'm having to use more pads here on t You could theoretically, sometimes I do, run the drill at a slower pace so you get a more of a grind, less impact on the pad. T I try to get through the headlights most efficiently and fast as possible. I want to be out here all day in the sun. I want to get it done but I want to do it to the best of my ability. But you can slow down the drill and preserve the pads. But as a professional, I want to use fresh material and I want it to work the way it does fresh up the gate. Kind of I want that round one throughout my whole process. I don't want to milk it out to round 12. Tomorrow my materials are just not performing the same way that they were in the beginning. Just a little ideology there. But you see t I believe t I'll be using on t If you're doing t But you shouldn't want to short change your own headlight restoration in any cause. Especially if you're doing it for somebody else's car. You want to deliver the best possible quality equipment and supplies and using them the way they're supposed to be used to best meet the best outcome. But You're not really pus You're pretty much using the weight of the drill. You can feel the sandpaper grip the headlight. And that's one of the ways It's just running smoothly on there. You see that w That's how I've had a lot of awesome questions lately. There you go. Three discs. I have a lot of awesome questions lately. A lot of them had to do with the dry sand method because most people or a lot of people use the wet sand method. Scientifically, in actuality, it's really not the best. It's a very light method of sanding that you do not know where you are. You don't know how deep you need to go to start with that. You would know how deep you need to go to water. It clouds your vision. It clouds your ability to feel the headlight. It's just sanding blinding that way. You have to clear it off and look. That's one of the reasons. You just don't know where you're at. If you see a lot of those wet sanding videos or wet sanding methods, their inequality isn't as clear. Another reason is you don't ac Friction and heat does somet I don't know the scientific term. I'm not technically a scientist but something With the sandpaper, it provides a certain amount of friction. If I touch the sandpaper pad here, it's hot or it's warm. Not to burn your hand but you can tell the heat. Sometimes you have to slow down and pace yourself on the trigger to not overheat the pad. Once the pad overheats, you get a melting. You'll see some yellow residual trace that's left from the pad. That's when It's overheated. You need to disregard it and use another pad. It comes right off. It's not an issue. That last pad I used was the P800 w It's the same pad that I took off and put onto my little yellow gimbal. My little handheld sander. You see those long smooth strokes. There's very light pressure on the hand. It's really finesse. I'm not putting pressure on t You never want to put pressure on it. Especially when you see a light that has cracking or spider cracking w You don't want to put pressure on it any time because you can crack a light. I know from experience but a lot of people won't know who's been in that light. What's happened to that light? If they've had accidents or if somebody else has restored that light ten times, who knows? You don't know who's been there before. When you see those cracks, it's a warning sign to be gentle. In any cause, you should be gentle with the headlight. You don't want to be muscling it up or putting too much pressure in any kind of way. You can see that smoothness. You can almost see it. You can definitely feel it when you're using the hand sander too. How smooth and wonderful that light feels right now. That's what you're looking for. You can see those lines that go back and forth. Those lines are easy to mask and easy to delete with the Magic Pad. It polishes and sands at the same time. You can see that the water is very clear. It's 2 in importance. Just tap water here and smooth sanding with the P3000. You want to overlap just Overlap with your sanding. You always want to overlap. I actually do a lot more than headlight restoration. Headlight restoration is by primary function. I do all kinds of the same techniques. Kind of intermingle. Waxing and polis Swirl to leave. These t Or are cross applicable. You see how it's milky looking? That's because if you ever notice my headlight restoration is at t I don't wipe off all that dust that's on the light. I spray it off. I leave a little bit on because it helps with the polis It's a little t If I were to spray that off and wipe it down before I start t I wouldn't ac Right here is just a regular Windex. T It's cheaper to buy that way in bulk because I'm doing more than just one headlight. But any kind would work. Even the foam. But It pulls everyt The spray kind of lifts it. Should I say? W Clean microfiber towels. Always clean microfiber towels when you get to these steps. Why? Because when you're wiping off you don't want to wipe on grease or dust. You want to finish the product to be super clean. As you see here, it's dehydrating from that alcohol. Actually that is in all Windexes or all glass cleaners. They'really alcohol based. That's where the drying and evaporation comes from. Alcohol has a So I'm getting ready to use t I haven't used t It's fairly new. So I hydrated it just now with a little bit of water and then I damped it off so it's not soaking wet with the towel. Here I'm using a plastic lens polish. You want to use a dime size dab of it. But you want to spread it all the way through the pad. And then see here I'm using the dab method. Going back and forth, putting, If you were to look at t So that's what's going on here is the headlight is soaking up and those pores a little bit of this polish which is So the dab method is a must in my opinion. A lot of, It's also a time space to allow once again to soak in both ways to the pad and to the light. This is kind of one of the reasons why when people rub WD-40 or bug sprays or, It'll look good for an hour or two but once it dries up your headlights are going to be even worse off because now it has that residual residue. So people please do not use that on your headlight. No gimmicks, no toothpaste, nothing Because once that stuff physically dries and tries to evaporate it leaves be I've had to do people's headlights that have done t At least permanent damage. It's just not cool, Or do it yourself. Watch these videos. But Partially t But also t I'm using it at speed setting 7800 RPM. So with that and the polish it is producing a flashpoint, a certain level of heat. T You can do t You can't leave it in one spot. You can'there's a lot of heat I'm using here w It's a flashpoint t You got to know how to work it. And if you watch these videos, how I've been doing it, you can learn that easy. With that being said, don't be intimidated to try it that way. It's going to be the best way you can. It's common sense. If you're just holding it in one area for 30 seconds, 20 seconds, you're going to burn somet But if you're constantly moving it, if you're just touc But if it turns clear and you're just going to go over that spot 10 times and you're going to sit it there for 27 seconds, of course you're trying to mess up a headlight. You got to almost try to mess up a headlight with these methods. A lot of people are scared of the dry sanding. You are not going to burn not Trust me, unless you want to. Also, with t It's very health risk. You'll start breat It's a very fine particle of vapor. So I'm using their 3M mask with the orange, excuse me, with a pink respirator, w The sanding is considered dust. So the pink is a good one. But t I'm spraying it. Then I turn a fan on it to blow it away. You don't want to suck t Once again, I'm using a UV coating, a spray can UV coating, w T I don't Of course, you're going to go with the You're going to buy Nike's or you're going to buy ProWings. You're going to know w But I use other ones as well. Different ones do different t I generally I use the Maguire's here on these videos because it'smaller and handheld and easier to pretty much work with on these videos. But I use other ones as well. There's literally about a dozen, if not more, different spray coatings out there. Get on the internet and check them out. Some are different prices. Some are different sizes. Big giant can, one of the ones I use. But they all pretty much are the same. T But once again, check t Crystal clear clarity. There's only a certain level of headlight restoration that any headlight restoration can get to. Now you'd be the judge. Please